Carburetor Cleaning and Repairs

NEW 2017 PPS carbs pricing.

PPS for carbs and gauges for following pricing schedule for 2017:

Basic carb rebuild on GL1100
PayPal with shaft seals priced at $525
Cashiers check with shaft seals priced at $500

Basic carb rebuild on GL1000
PayPal with shaft seals priced at $475
Cashiers check with shaft seals priced at $450

Click here for GL1000 carb removal

Cut and paste this email address petesgl@comcast.net into your email client to contact us for your carburetor
rebuild or gauge restoration need.

*Pricing does not include repairs, additional parts/services, polishing, return shipping and insurance. Pricing can change without notice.

Our commitment to our customers has been and will remain our highest priority. Each Carburetor set is engine synchronized and perfectly balanced on a test engine to 1/2 inch of mercury (see below). Your set will be within this margin before they are removed from the test engine and sent to you. This in turn will give you the confidence that your set will perform perfectly immediately after installation onto your bike. No other rebuild shop offers this option.


See below for removal suggestions for your carburetors.

 

GL1000

GL1100

 

Carburetor Removal for GL1000

It is relatively easy to remove the carburetors from a GL1000. The steps below will allow the process to be accomplished without potential damage to the carb set or the motorcycle.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage.

NOTE: Each carburetor corresponds to its respective cylinder number. #1 is front right, #2 is front left, #3 is rear right and #4 is rear left. (Viewed while seated and facing to the front)

1) Shut off fuel.
2) Remove spark plug caps from the left side spark plugs (#2 - #4) and carefully remove the wires from the carb stay clips on both sides.
3) Loosen choke cable from the choke bracket just behind #3 carb intake.
4) Remove the false tank completely. With assistance, you may be able to remove the entire assembly without removing the individual cover sections.
NOTE: There are five fasteners that secure the shell frame to the motorcycle. Two each side and one top front.
Be sure to disconnect the overflow hose from the neck of the radiator before removing the false tank assembly, also remove the fuel drain hose from the shelter frame.
5) Remove the air filter cover, air filter and filter box completely from the carbs.
NOTE: Be sure to remove hoses from the filter box.
6) Remove the cap, spring and diaphragm only from the air "cut off" valve located on the top front of the carb rack.
7) Remove the choke cable and the throttle cables from the carburetor control rotor unit.
8) Remove the screws only from the #1 and #3 (right side) vacuum caps.
9) Remove the 8 bolts and washers that hold the carb intakes to the cylinder heads.
10) Remove the carb fuel line from the pump only (be careful not to injure the fuel pump line nipple).
11) Using a magic marker, mark the number 1 and number 3 on the respective carb caps.
12) Remove the right side chrome carb stay brace.
NOTE: This step is unnecessary if the brace does not have the cuff guard to the rear.
13) Lift the carb set and move it out towards the #2 - #4 side of the engine until the #1 - #3 carb caps can be removed. Leave springs and pistons on their respective  carb bodies.
14) After the caps are removed the set can be maneuvered out of the frame. Be  careful that the #2 & #4 plug wires do not snag as the set is removed.
15) Set the carb unit over a suitable fuel catch pan and carefully remove the float bowl drain plugs to drain the fuel.
NOTE: If the drain plugs will not easily come out, remove all vacuum caps, springs and pistons from the set follow step 15a.
15a) Invert whole carburetor set over the catch pan to drain the fuel.

16) Replace the drain plugs, vacuum pistons, springs and vacuum caps in their proper positions. Reinstall the air cut cap and reattach the intakes.
NOTE: Before packaging rem
ove the intake seal.
17)
Be sure that all screws are snug and the set is dry of fuel. Wrap the set in several layers of bubble wrap and package them carefully into a suitable carton to prevent shipping damage. The carton should be large enough to allow the set to fit inside but as small as possible so the set does not move during shipment to us.
NOTE: It will be helpful if the carb set is placed inside a plastic bag or similar to prevent shipping material from entering the porting. Please do not ship the set using "popcorn foam" without over wrapping the set completely.
19) Ship them to us using a suitable carrier such as USPS, UPS, FedEx Gnd, etc.

 

 

Carburetor Removal for GL1100

Removal of the carburetors from the GL1100 is very similar to the GL1000 if removed from the Standard Model. Suggested removal instructions below are for the Interstate and Aspencade Models. If you have a Standard Model, some items listed will be unnecessary.
NOTE: Aftermarket items installed on your GL1100 may impede the removal of the carburetors as suggested below. The person removing them should determine this to facilitate removal.

1) Shut off fuel and open the fuel fill door of the shelter. Remove the tool tray and the fuel filler cap.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage or exposure of ignition sources near fuel vapor.

2) Remove spark plug caps from the left side spark plugs (#2 - #4) and carefully remove the wires from the carb stay clips on both sides.
3) Loosen choke cable from the choke bracket just behind #3 carb intake.
4) If possible, remove the choke cable bracket from the carburetor set. NOTE: This may be difficult as the screw is located on the carburetor plenum and will require a long shank #2 heavy duty phillips screw driver.
5) Remove the left and right lower fairing pieces by extracting the three attaching screws and collars from each one. NOTE: Be sure not to lose the collars to avoid crushing the plastic at assembly.
6) Disconnect the wire harness at the plastic connector located on the left/inside of the main fairing.
7) Remove the two front fastener nuts and washers completely from the fairing that attach it to the mount bracket.
8) Loosen the two remaining fastener nuts and washers but do not remove them until the front of the fairing is supported by a helper. NOTE: The fairing is front heavy and may move downward without warning.
9) With help, carefully lift slightly and remove the fairing towards the front of the bike.
10) Remove both of the sheet metal heat shrouds from the rear of each side of the fairing mount by removing the three screws from each one.
11) Remove the seat and remove both chrome carburetor stay brackets.
12) Remove the fasteners (usually 4) from the false fuel tank and carefully remove it. With assistance, you should be able to
spread it slightly and lift it off from the components below.
13) Detach the air box components, remove the filter and remove the air box from the carburetor plenum. Remove the air chamber seal from the plenum.
14) Remove the screws and washers only from the # 1 and # 3 vacuum caps. Magic mark the caps with their position number. #1 is front right, #3 is rear right.
15) Remove the 8 bolts and washers that hold the carb intakes to the cylinder heads.
16) Remove the carb fuel line from the pump only (be careful not to injure the fuel pump line nipple) and remove the throttle cables as well as the choke cable. Lay the cable ends out of the way for removal of the carb set.
17) In some cases it may be necessary to loosen the four fasteners that hold the radiator to the frame. This must be enough (about 10 mm) so that the plenum chamber of the carb set can be removed past the fan motor.
18) Lift the carb set slightly and move it out towards the #2 - #4 side of the engine until the # 1 and # 3 carb caps can be removed. You may leave springs and pistons on their respective  carb bodies.
19) After the caps are removed the set can be maneuvered out of the left side of the frame. Be  careful that the #2 & #4 plug wires do not snag as the set is removed. NOTE: Recheck the choke bracket for easy removal of the set.
20) Set the carb unit over a suitable fuel catch pan and carefully remove the float bowl drain plugs to drain the fuel.
NOTE: If the drain plugs will not easily come out, magic mark the remaining vacuum pistons while in their respective carb positions and remove them and all four of the springs and pistons.
21) Invert whole carburetor set over the catch pan to drain the fuel.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage or exposure of ignition sources near fuel vapor.

22) Replace the drain plugs loosely, vacuum pistons, springs and vacuum caps in their proper positions and snug the screws.
NOTE: The carb set should be as pictured above (but without the carb stays and air box seal) before packaging.
23) Be sure that all screws are snug and the set is dry of fuel. Wrap the set in several layers of bubble wrap and package them carefully into a suitable carton to prevent shipping damage. The set should not move inside of the final package when ready for shipment.
NOTE: It will be helpful if the carb set is placed inside a plastic bag or similar to prevent shipping material from entering the porting. Please do not ship the set using "popcorn foam" without over wrapping the set completely.
24) Ship them to us using a suitable carrier such as USPS, UPS, FedEx Gnd, etc.

 

Stainless Steel Caliper Pistons

Pistol Pete regrets that the caliper pistons are no longer available.

We apologize for any inconvenience.

 

Caliper piston removal.

 

  1. Loosen all fasteners that join the caliper body halves together and as well as the brake line fitting terminating at the caliper body. All should be loose just enough to ease removal later at disassembly but not enough to leak fluid.
  2. If accessible, remove all parts that hold the inspection cover and/or pad support fasteners.
  3. Remove the caliper body from the motorcycle with the hose attached. This may require the wheel assembly to be removed.
  4. Remove the brake pads, piston boots and clips.
  5. Open the master cylinder reservoir and top up the fluid using the proper type.
  6. If the caliper body has more than one piston, clamp all but one piston in its current position using a small "C" clamp(s) or suitable.
  7. Depress or squeeze the brake lever until the un-clamped piston moves out about ¼ inch. Then change positions with the "C" clamp on each piston until all have been pushed out about ¼ inch . Note: Check fluid to prevent a dry reservoir and ingesting air into the lines.
  8. Repeat the clamp/un-clamp procedure until each piston is near the stroke limit, it should begin leaking some fluid around the piston seal(s).
  9. Repeat steps 1) thru 8) for each caliper assembly to be serviced and before you follow step 10).
  10. Remove the caliper body from the hose (Protect surfaces from brake fluid spills) and suspend the hoses as high as possible to prevent fluid spillage. Separate caliper halves by removing previous fasteners that were loosened.
  11. The pistons should be easily twisted from their bores using suitable means. NOTE: Protect work area and surfaces from brake fluid spillage by using a large pan below the parts during the above separation of pistons.
  12. Using hot soapy water as a cleaner [will not work with DOT 5], clean any remaining brake fluid from the caliper body parts to prevent destruction of the surface paint. Clean the body parts in preparation for assembly. Pay particular attention to the inside of the piston seal groove. Use 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper to lightly restore the piston bore surface without removing base metal. Wash the caliper body inside and out once again to remove remaining grime and blow it completely dry with 30psi dry compressed air.

Reassemble using good seal components, cleaned piston bores, clean seal grooves and pistons.

NOTE: Do not use any lubricants other than the brake fluid to coat parts during installation of pistons. All rubber parts should be cleaned before installation.

DOT 5 brake fluid will attack silicone rubber parts.

Never mix DOT 5 fluid with any other fluid.

 

 

Restoration page has been moved.

Click here for the page

 

 

Gauge Restoration

Pistol Pete's ongoing service for GL1000 gauges include rebuilding, restoring faces, repairing slow needles, replacing needles, cleaning, lubricating, resetting odometers (if allowed in your state) and calibration for correct rpm and mph.

Cut and paste this email address into your email client petesgl@comcast.net if you have trouble removing your GL1000 gauges

NEW Pistol Pete's Honda CBX1000 Gauge Restorative Service.

Pistol Pete's new service for CBX1000 gauges include rebuilding, restoring faces, repairing slow needles, replacing needles, cleaning, lubricating, resetting odometers (if allowed in your state) and calibration for correct rpm and mph.

We can also include a new face plate that will be very visible at night. The CBX gauges have always been less that perfect for night riding especially after aging somewhat. Our new faceplates are near perfect duplications of the OEM faces but the tick marks and numbers will be very visible when riding at night.

In addition we are pleased to offer 1980-1982; 80mph speedometer conversions to 150 mph and it will include the illuminated faceplates above. This service is now available.

 

 

Here is what we offer:


1) Basic Rebuild includes the following:

Check the calibration, professionally open the gauge, inspect and clean the entire instrument (additional effort on the odometers will be done on the Speedo), repair slow armature, lubricate, reapply anti fog agent to the inside of the lens and professionally close the gauge.


2) Series 2 Rebuild includes the following;

Basic Rebuild above plus replacement of the old faded faceplate with a new one of the same style as the supplied gauge (the customer will have the option of replacing the 10k Tach face plate with an 11k faceplate at no additional cost) and re-calibrate back to the supplied gauge. NOTE: If there is a discrepancy of the reading of the gauges as supplied and correct reading when the calibration is checked in the Basic, we will let the owner know if more than + - 2 mph or 200 rpm.


3) Series 3 Rebuild will include the following:

All of Basic, Series 2 (above) and conversion of the 80 mph Speedometer to 150 mph with the correct face plate. If the Tach is sent along with the Speedo it will get the 11k Tach face at the Series 2 Price below

PRICING

Pricing on all CBX Gauge Rebuilds*

BASIC: Speedometer $80.00 - Tachometer $70.00.
Series 2: Speedometer $140.00 - Tachometer $130.00 (may be 10k or 11k face)
Series 3: Conversion of 80 to 150 mph Speedometer $195.00. See Series 2 above for the Tach inclusion.

Inquire about price savings for multiple gauge rebuilds with discounts on return shipping. ICOA and all CBX forums can receive a 5% discount. Just let us know what forum and your screen name.

Email me if I can provide this service for you.

petesgl@comcast.net

 

 

GL1000 Gauge removal instructions.

Gauge removal Below is the recommended gauge removal guideline for all GL1000 Speedometers and Tachometers referring to the drawing below. (Scroll down for small gauge removal) NOTE: Removal of the headlight assembly is recommended before any attempt to remove the gauges. Also remove the ignition key from the ignition switch in the "off" position and disconnect both gauge drive cables at the gauge.

1) Remove the four oval head screws from the Instrument Cover and carefully pull the cover up and away from the instrument loom below.

2) Remove the two oval head screws from the lower cover and carefully remove the cover. Note the positions of the connectors so that they can be placed back into the cover at assembly.

3) Carefully lift but do not completely remove the Main Pilot Loom from the Main Bracket.

4) Remove the two Chrome plated oval head screws from the bottom of Tach Chrome Ring and the Speedo Chrome Ring.

5) Lift the Tach out of the Chrome Ring enough to locate the Wire Loom connections at the Main Wire Loom (75/76/77 Tachs will have additional wires for the Temp gauge that also are attached to the Main Wire Loom.)

6) Disconnect all of the Tach Loom and Temp wires from the Main Loom and carefully fish the wires out of the Main Bracket and Chrome Ring while holding the Tachometer firmly.

7) After the Tach is removed, place it right side up onto a clean soft surface. NOTE: Never allow the removed Tachometer or Speedometer to be turned face down. Prolonged periods in this position can permanently damage the instrument(s).

8) Follow the same technique for the Speedo removal as in 5), 6) and 7)

9) Carefully remove the two nuts that attach the Instrument Bracket on the Tach and remove the Clips and Bracket assembly including the small ferrules inside the rubber mounts. Be sure to place all parts in a secure container such as a marked plastic bag, for reassembly when the gauges are returned.

10) With a gentle twisting motion carefully remove the Light Wire Loom from the back of the Tachometer. NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the Temp wires as they are permanently attached to the gauge.

11) Follow the same technique for the removal and storage of the parts for the Speedometer.

12) You are now ready to package the instruments for shipping to Pistol Pete's Services. NOTE: The Speedometer and Tachometers must be shipped bare without the light Wire Looms and with all hardware removed.

1975/76 and 77 Fuel Gauge Removal.

1) Remove the key from the ignition switch in the "off" position, open the Top Shelter and locate the wire lugs of the Loom connected to the bottom of the Fuel Gauge. (Note the wire color and where they are attached)

2) Remove the two nuts and washers that fasten the terminal studs to the Gauge with a 7mm wrench.

3) Carefully pull the Fuel Gauge out of the hole until the light wire can be easily removed from the gauge bottom. Remove the two nuts and wire lugs from the terminal studs. NOTE: This may require bending the loom wire clips on the shelter frame to allow the loom wire to extend more freely.

4) Remove the rubber Seal Ring from the Gauge and store all attachment parts in a suitable container such as a marked plastic bag.

5) Wrap the Temp Gauge in 4 to 5 layers of small bubble wrap to package for shipment. See "Shipping the Gauges" below.

1978/1979 Small Gauge Removal

1) Remove key from the ignition switch in the "off" position and open the Top Shelter.

2) Open both Side Shelter Covers and locate the four Mount Bolts to the Gauge Mount housing.

3) Remove the bolts with a 10mm wrench and the Wire Clip.

4) Lift up and rotate the Gauge Mount housing to the left so that the undersides of the Gauges are exposed.

5) Using a 7mm wrench, remove the two nuts, lock washers and flat washers only from the bottom of the Voltmeter on the terminal studs.

6) Rotate the Gauge Mount assembly back up right and pull the Voltmeter out of the hole until the light wire can be easily removed. Note the wire color and wire lug location as attached to the gauge. Remove the two nuts and each of the wire lugs from the terminal posts. Do not use excessive force when removing the light wire from the gauge socket to prevent damage.

7) Remove the Rubber seal Ring from the gauge and place the gauge safely onto a soft surface in preparation for packaging. Place all removed gauge attachment items in a suitable container such as a plastic bag for safe keeping.

8) For the Fuel Gauge and the Temp Gauge follow steps 4) through 7) for each individual gauge.

9) Wrap each gauge individually with 3 to 5 layers of small bubble wrap and follow the "Shipping the Gauges" instructions below.

Shipping the Gauges

It is very important that the Speedometer and Tachometer Gauges are shipped and maintained in an up right position as much as possible during transit. Therefore, each gauge should be wrapped in four to six layers of small bubble wrap and placed right side up (face up) inside a narrow depth carton approximately 12" to 14" long x 10" to 12" wide and 5" to 6" deep.

If small gauges are shipped with the larger gauges, the container should be at least the longer and the wider of these dimensions with extra packing to assure that all separated gauges arrive safely.

The container must be marked "Fragile" on all or most sides and prominently marked with "This side up" so that the Speedo and Tach are not inverted during shipment.

NOTE: DO NOT USE STYROFOAM "POPCORN" AS A PACKING MEDIA. It can crumble and get inside the gauge requiring additional work to clean.

 

Appraisals of your GL1000

Pistol Pete can appraise your GL1000 Goldwing but we will need to see it first.

Email me if I can provide this service for you.

petesgl@comcast.net


 

Thinking about doing the carb rebuild yourself?

The GL1000 and GL1100 carburetors are precision units that require more than an "I can do this" attitude. Click here for 10 reasons to have Pistol Pete's rebuild your set to assure that it will perform as well as or better than OEM.